Cool braids from the John Barrett Salon in NYC.
The man who single-handedly elevated my profession to an art.
RIP, Vidal.
"That women are joining in the ongoing disassembling of my appearance is salient. Patriarchy is not men. Patriarchy is a system in which both women and men participate. It privileges, inter alia, the interests of boys and men over the bodily integrity, autonomy, and dignity of girls and women. It is subtle, insidious, and never more dangerous than when women passionately deny that they themselves are engaging in it."
I promised I would get back to this link (quote links to whole article), so here I go…
Sometimes I feel really weird about working in the beauty industry, because I wonder whether these ideas (critical standards of beauty, lack of female solidarity regarding choice of appearance, etc.) are so intertwined with what I do that I can’t fight against them from my position. It feels like a classic example of trying to weigh the benefits of working within a broken system.
Like artists in the music industry, or progressive politicians, I work within a structure where ideals which I hold dear are not in line with the status quo. Is it better to work from the inside? To prove that it doesn’t have to be that way? Most days I do feel like I’m helping people to like who they are and appreciate what they have. Though there are also days where I want to tell everyone to throw away all of their makeup and hair products and quit stressing over their appearance, because the whole conversation is, at best, pointless, and at its worst, damaging and dangerous.
But those are my more cynical days. And I try really hard to fight against cynicism in my daily life, so it feels better to be a part of the conversation than to walk away from it.
If I can do anything to help women like themselves (whether long, short, curly, frizzy or straight), and if I can have any influence over the lens through which women and men see each other and the rest of the world, I’ll take it.
(Source: prettypinkplace, via sustainablesex)
(Source: storyofstuff.org, via sustainablesex)
(Source: jenniekaybeauty)
Thank goodness for BUB
I am about to head to Chicago for a 2-day Bumble and bumble styling class. My dog will stay and hang out with this cute critter. He doesn’t know it yet, but he’s going to be stoked.
You tell 'em, Ms. Judd.
I’ve been sitting on this link for a few days, in the hope that I would be able to add some really articulate commentary on both my guilt and hope concerning how the “beauty industry” I’m a part of affects these kinds of norms.
I’m still thinking. But for now, here it is.
Ingredient Knowledge: Silicones
So some recent product research led me to examine silicones as an ingredient in hair products. I knew there was some controversy around the benefits and hazards of silicones, but I didn’t know much. Now I do.
Silicones are inorganic, water-insoluble compounds that are used in everything from cooking utensils and oven mitts to bathtub caulk to hair products. They are water-resistant, heat-resistant and highly lubricant. These characteristics, along with being highly light-refractive, make them desirable for hair care products. Defrizz serums are primarily composed of silicones. They are also commonly found in conditioners of all kinds, and even in shampoos and all kinds of other styling products.
Silicones coat the hair shaft, leaving it silky and shiny. Some say that this coating offers protection and locks out humidity, others say that this coating locks out crucial moisture and natural oils. Herein lies the controversy.
As always, nothing is black and white, and both sides are right in some ways. I have seen the results of silicones, and they do work wonders for creating the appearance (at the very least), of smooth, shiny, healthy hair. But on a chemical level, there is no denying the fact that they are not water-soluble, and therefore need a sulfate-based shampoo to remove from the hair. They can build up over time, and while they do allow gases through (your hair can still get oxygen,) they don’t allow moisture through.
I probably will still continue to recommend silicone-based products to my clients who flat iron their hair regularly. The heat-resistant and protective qualities do help to minimize damage from heat styling. But it is a band-aid solution for an imperfect world where not everyone loves the hair they have.
I do believe that the best method is usually a natural one, and silicones are definitely not natural hair-health. In my perfect world, our hair reflects our inner good health and doesn’t need inorganic compounds to smooth it out, because it’s already shiny and gorgeous. But until then, I guess we have silicones.
Curly Hair Tips Pt. 2: Styling and Everyday Care
To wash or not to wash…
Recently, curly hair movements have been pushing the “no-poo” (shampoo, that is) agenda. All hair is different, so I don’t think there is any one right answer for everyone. I do know that curly hair, especially, does well with plenty of natural oils. I do think it’s ok to not shampoo. A good scrub with water and conditioner should be enough to loosen dirt and keep your scalp clean and healthy.
But if you’ve always shampooed, this can be a tough concept to grasp, and it may take some time for your scalp to adjust (which means some excessively greasy days and maybe weeks while your skin realizes it doesn’t need to constantly replenish its natural oils.) If you do want to shampoo, try shampooing less often, and switching to something sulfate-free (sulfates strip the natural oils from your hair,) or something that you know is really gentle and moisturizing.
As long as you’re not stripping all of the moisture and oils out of your hair, a light conditioner should be enough. Unless your hair is really damaged, you want something light enough to not weigh down your curls.
The main thing is that dryness is the primary enemy of curly hair. Well-moisturized curls are shiny and frizz-free. Your own natural oils are one of the best moisture sources, but not the only.
Styling
Get a diffuser, or get rid of your blow dryer. Air drying is the best method for curls. The next best is a diffuser, which is that big, funky blow dryer attachment with all of the holes and little nubby things that a lot of people throw away when it comes with their dryer because they don’t know what to do with it. If you’ve thrown yours away or never had one, you can find universal ones pretty cheap, or go to folica.com to search for the diffuser that was made for your dryer. They are nice to have on cold days when you don’t want to leave the house with wet hair, and when you want some extra volume, because you can use them to get even weak waves nice and bouncy. I’ve also seen people put a sock on the end of a blow dryer to diffuse the air flow, which seems like an ok last resort, but it doesn’t have the advantage of the bowl shape that makes is easy to encourage curl, and seems like a definite fire hazard.
Here is a good link to using a diffuser.
No matter how you choose to dry, one of the single greatest tips I’ve learned in dealing with curls is finger shaping by twisting. Twisting your curls together with your fingers when your hair is still wet gives you control over the curl shape. Experiment with different size sections of hair to see what works for your curl. The bigger sections you twist up, the more you will have the Shirley Temple ringlet style. If you take smaller sections, or separate those ringlets once your hair is dry, you’ll have more varied, natural curls.
Stay tuned for Part 3: Product Recommendations
